Biology
Leopard geckos are terrestrial (living mainly on the ground) and adapted to life in dry scrublands on rocky, clay soils. All leopard geckos in the UK are captive bred.
Leopard geckos are crepuscular, meaning that they’re active at dawn and dusk, and spend the heat of the day hidden under rocks to avoid high temperatures and predators. Their wild diet consists of a large variety of invertebrates and the occasional small mammal and seasonal flower.
Leos usually grow to around 25cm in length and can live up to 20 years. There are now many colour and pattern variants – called morphs – available.
Environment
Your gecko’s enclosure, called a vivarium, must be secure to prevent escape and free from hazards. Good ventilation is essential to reduce the build-up of bacteria and it should be made from a solid material that is easy to clean.
A 60cm long, 40cm high and 30cm deep vivarium is the minimum size recommended for one adult leopard gecko – but it should be as large as possible. Position it away from anything that could affect the temperature, like radiators or direct sunlight.
Temperature
Reptiles are ectothermic, meaning they use their environment to warm up and cool down. You need to create a thermogradient by positioning the heat source at one end of the vivarium, leaving the other end cool so the gecko can choose the level of heat it needs.
To create a basking zone at one end, use a 60–100 watt ceramic lamp or basking lamp. The heat source must have a guard around it to prevent your reptile getting burnt, or injured should the bulb shatter. Leopard geckos feel warmth through their bellies, so place natural slate or rock in the basking zone to absorb daytime heat.
A thermostat, a simple device that regulates the temperature, must be used with all heat sources. For a heat lamp, place the probe of a dimming thermostat above the substrate. Adjust the thermostat temperature and check the basking zone with a digital thermometer until it reaches 28–30°C.
The other end should be cooler, 24-26°C. Thermostats are not always accurate, so check the temperatures every day using a digital thermometer for the basking zone and another in the cool end. An infrared thermometer can also be used to check the temperature in the basking zone and cool end daily.
You should turn off the heat at night to simulate night-time. However, if the temperature of the room drops below 18°C, you’ll need supplementary heat. Use a reptile heat mat on one side of a wooden vivarium, or under half the base of a glass vivarium. Connect this to an on/off thermostat, with the probe directly over the heat mat, set at 30°C. Alternatively, you can maintain the air temperature with a ceramic heat lamp (which does not emit light) set at 18–20°C with a thermostat.
Humidity
Leos need a relatively dry environment to prevent skin or airway problems. Measure the humidity at the cool end with a hygrometer. It should normally be around 30–40 percent. If it’s too high, your vivarium will need more ventilation. A humid hide is also required to provide a local area of usable humidity (see below).
Light
Reptiles use natural daylight to set their day and night patterns. Sunlight contains visible light and ultraviolet (UV). Part of UV, called UVB, allows reptiles to make vitamin D3, vital for the animal to store and use calcium. Another part is called UVA, essential for a reptile’s vision as they can see many more colours with UVA.
Create a photogradient, from light to shade, by grouping your light with the heat source so the cool end is more shaded, just as in the wild. Fit a 2–5 percent UVB tube for reptiles, one-half to one-third of the vivarium length, into the roof of the vivarium in the hot end. Use a reflector of the correct length to direct the light onto your gecko. UVB decreases with distance, so follow the UVB tube manufacturer’s recommendations regarding distance between the lamp and your gecko. UVB is partially blocked by mesh, so you may need a stronger UVB bulb in a taller vivarium, or one with a mesh lid.
Check the manufacturer’s guidance on which bulb you need. The UVB output decreases over time so the UVB output should be checked regularly using an appropriate UV Index (UVI) meter positioned at the level of the animal directed towards the UV lamp. Leopard geckos require a gradient of UVB within their enclosure ranging from UVI 0.7 in the basking zone to zero in the shade. The lamp must also be replaced according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Seek advice from your reptile vet if you have a red-eyed morph, as they may find bright light damaging. As with the heat lamp, UV lamps must always be guarded to prevent burns or injuries.
Turn off all lights at night. Lamps can be controlled using a simple plug-in timer: 12 hours on during the day and 12 hours off at night.
Cleaning
Poorly maintained enclosures can become dirty quickly and create a health risk for your reptile and for you – reptiles can carry salmonella.
Waste should be spot cleaned as soon as it appears and clean the whole vivarium and all equipment fully once a month. Use a reptile-safe disinfectant then rinse off and dry thoroughly. Wash your hands before and after handling the gecko or equipment to reduce the spread of infection between you and the lizard and other animals.
Diet
Water
Water is essential for a reptile’s health and wellbeing, so make sure you provide a shallow dish of clean, fresh water at all times in the cool end. This must be cleaned and replaced at least daily – and immediately if it’s soiled.
Feeding
Leopard geckos mainly feed on invertebrates in the wild. In captivity, you should feed your gecko a varied diet of live invertebrates, called livefood. These include crickets (for example brown house crickets), calciworms and locusts, no bigger than the size of the gecko’s head. Feed waxworms sparingly as they are high in fat. You can also offer a washed dandelion or nasturtium flower once a month to supplement their diet.
Juveniles should be fed daily and adults every other day. It’s a good idea to weigh your gecko regularly.
If you feed them in the vivarium, remove uneaten bugs to prevent them biting the gecko.
Keep feeder insects in a large, well-ventilated container. They should be fed safe vegetables and hydrated well for their own welfare and so that the nutrients are passed onto the gecko. Feeder insects should also be gut-loaded with vitamins and minerals by offering them an appropriate formulated gut-loading diet 24–48 hours prior to feeding them to your gecko.
The captive environment doesn’t supply all of the vitamins and minerals available in the wild, so you’ll need to provide supplements. Lightly dust livefood with a vitamin and calcium supplement immediately before offering it to the gecko. Vitamins and minerals can be overdosed, so always follow the instructions of the chosen brand. For example, with a well-set UV system you won’t need to supply a lot of vitamin D3. You should also provide a small bowl of plain calcium powder at all times for your gecko to lick. Store supplements in a cool, dry place to keep them fresh.
Behaviour
Enrichment
It’s important to provide opportunities for leos to express natural behaviours, which is called enrichment. For leopard geckos, provide plenty of hiding places and some low, sturdy branches or rocks for climbing.
Include several hides throughout either end of the vivarium so the gecko can choose the temperature without having to compromise feeling secure. Another hide with a waterproof bottom and containing damp moss creates a humid hide. This needs to be sprayed with clean water every few days to keep it moist.
Substrate
Substrate is the name for the floor covering in your vivarium. It’s important as it provides something for the gecko to grip onto. In the wild, leopard geckos may take up small amounts of soil or sand when feeding, which are passed through the body.
With a healthy adult gecko, in a well set-up enclosure, a soil/sand mix of approximately 50 percent organic soil, 50 percent sand can be used. Only use clean children’s play sand or reptile sand – not builder’s sand which can be sharp. Do not use calcisand, beech chips, or other non-natural loose substrates. This is because they can cause impaction, where particles become lodged inside of the belly and cause a blockage – a potentially fatal issue. Impaction is a worrying sign of underlying problems such as incorrect temperatures, dehydration or vitamin deficiencies, so you should see your reptile vet for regular check-ups to ensure that your gecko is healthy.
You can use clay substrates that provide a natural look and set hard so that there is no risk of impaction, or another safe option is to use rough, flat stone or slate pieces. They provide good grip, can be used to create different levels in the vivarium and can be easily cleaned. You could use a product called reptile carpet to line the vivarium floor, which can be easily removed for cleaning. It’s recommended that young geckos are housed on non-loose substrates when they’re very young, until you’re happy that they’re doing well.
For permanent housing, it’s recommended that owners consider a bioactive system. Research how to do this using expert books on the topic, or specialist keeper member groups online.
Bringing your lizard home
Set up the vivarium and run it for a minimum of a week before introducing your leopard gecko. This will allow time for you to adjust everything before the animal arrives.
On the first day, carefully place the gecko inside the vivarium. Leave the lizard with some food and water but with no further interaction until the following day. This will reduce stress and allow the leo to explore in their own time. It’s best not to start handling unnecessarily for the first week – instead, let your gecko take time to become used to their surroundings.
Company
Handling
Leopard geckos can become used to handling, which is helpful when checking their health. Never grab your gecko as it can be stressful, and lead them to struggle or bite. The gecko should be gently scooped up with both hands, so all four feet are supported. Never apply any pressure to the tail as the gecko can drop it; it can grow back but it’s dangerous for the gecko’s health, as they will have to rebuild their fat stores.
If your gecko backs away when you try to pick them up or tries to bite, it’s better to leave them alone rather than to keep going until they’re caught – just try again another time. The gecko should not be taken from the vivarium for so long that their core temperature drops. Around 10–15 minutes at a time is safe, depending on the room temperature. Keep other pets away, regardless of how safe they may seem around your gecko.
Health and welfare
Clear, bright eyes are one of the signs of a healthy leopard gecko. They should be active and the belly should not touch the floor, apart from when resting. Well-fed geckos will have a thick tail. A leopard gecko’s droppings should be quite dry and will be made up from faecal waste (the dark part) and urates, (the white part).
Shedding
Poor shedding on the feet can cut off the blood supply and lead to the loss of toes. Do not pull off old skin if it seems stuck as it can tear the new skin underneath. If you still see dry skin caught around the toes or eyes, consult your reptile vet for advice.
Poor shedding on the feet can cut off the blood supply and lead to the loss of toes. Do not pull off old skin if it seems stuck as it can tear the new skin underneath. If you still see dry skin caught around the toes or eyes, consult your reptile vet for advice.
Brumation
Brumation is a natural process, similar to hibernation, seen in some individuals over the cooler months. It’s triggered by the reduction in temperatures, air pressure and natural daylight hours. These geckos may eat less than normal and increase the time spent sleeping, but they shouldn’t lose weight at this time – monitor your gecko carefully.
Brumation
One of the most common problems that affect captive reptiles is metabolic bone disease (MBD). This is a term used to describe a range of nutritional diseases, but is most often due to a lack of UVB lighting, resulting in vitamin D3 deficiency. This prevents reptiles from absorbing calcium from their food. Symptoms include muscle twitching, swollen legs, fragile bones and eventually, permanently deformed limbs, jaws, spine or tail. If you notice any of these signs you must seek urgent vet advice.
Female geckos reaching adulthood may produce infertile eggs, even without a male present. If this happens, her belly will swell and you might even be able to see the eggs in the belly. It is very important that she is given a nest box of moist soil or a sand/soil mixture to lay the eggs in, or she may become egg-bound.
Geckos can also get digestive problems. Abnormal droppings or constipation, coupled with weight loss, can be serious. Another potential disease of captive lizards that you need to research is impaction (see above).
It’s essential that you take the time to do further research before getting a reptile. If you do get a leopard gecko, monitor their health and behaviour daily and see your reptile vet if you have any concerns.
Transport
If you need to transport your leopard gecko, for example when going to the vet, it’s important to do so safely. A gecko can be transported in a well-ventilated plastic container lined with soft, absorbent paper. This should be kept warm; you may need to add a reptile heat pack to provide gentle heat in cold weather but make sure it won’t overheat the container. Keep transport time to a minimum to reduce stress.