Biology
Royal pythons originate from West Africa including Ghana, Togo and Benin, where they are still collected for the leather and meat trades. In their natural grasslands or forest habitats, they can be found in and around the grassland burrows or termite mounds during the heat of the day.
They are crepuscular (active at dawn and dusk) and can be viewed as being partial baskers. Royals are docile by nature and curl up into a ball when threatened, which is why they are referred to as ball pythons in America. They aren’t venomous, instead using constriction to kill their wild prey. Royals have been bred to produce many colour and pattern variants called morphs.
Royal pythons can grow to around 150cm, but sizes can differ between males and females.
Environment
Your snake will need an enclosure, called a vivarium. Make sure it’s secure to prevent them from escaping, free from hazards that might cause injuries, and well ventilated to prevent the build-up of harmful bacteria. It should be made from a solid material that’s easy to clean and holds heat well.
A royal python will needs vivarium big enough to allow them to fully stretch out, so allow at least one-third of the snake's length for the width and height. For example, a 120cm long snake will need a minimum 120cm long, 40cm wide and 40cm deep vivarium. Royals will become stressed in large, open, bare spaces, which is linked to their behaviour when avoiding predators, so they should have plenty of cover and multiple hides. If you have a young snake, they should have an appropriately sized enclosure then increasingly larger ones as they grow, or plenty of small confined spaces provided within a larger vivarium.
Temperature
Reptiles are ectothermic, meaning they use their environment to warm up and cool down, so you need to create a thermogradient. This means positioning a heat source at one end of the vivarium and leaving the opposite end cool, so the snake can move around to regulate their own temperature.
To create a basking zone, use a 60–100 watt reptile heat lamp at one end of the enclosure pointing downwards. Make sure the heat lamp has a guard around it to prevent your snake getting burnt, or injured should the bulb shatter. It should also be connected to a thermostat, a simple device that regulates the temperature. Place the thermostat probe above the substrate, at the same level as the snake. Adjust the thermostat and check the basking zone temperature using a digital thermometer until it reaches 30–32°C.
For smaller enclosures, such as for a hatchling, you can use a reptile heat mat, which should be placed underneath the enclosure or protected by a mat guard so that the snake can’t touch its surface. It must also be used with an on/off thermostat, with the probe directly over the heat mat, set at 32°C.
However, thermostats aren’t always accurate, so it’s important to record temperatures at each end of the enclosure with an infrared thermometer every day, at the same level as the snake. Use one digital thermometer for the basking zone and another at the cool end, which should measure 24–26°C.
You’ll also need to provide non-light emitting heat at night, such as a ceramic heater or reptile radiator, again connected to a suitable thermostat.
Place the vivarium in a safe location away from draughts and sources of heat (like radiators or direct sunlight) as these affect the temperature.
Humidity
Your snake needs correct levels of humidity to keep their respiratory system healthy and for skin shedding. Use a hygrometer to measure the humidity at the cool end of the vivarium, which should normally be around 50–60 percent. Mist the vivarium with clean water to boost humidity to around 80 percent, allowing it to drop in between.
If the humidity is constantly too high, your vivarium will need more ventilation to prevent build-up of bacteria and mould, which can cause illness.
Light
Reptiles, including snakes, use natural daylight to set their day and night patterns. Sunlight contains visible light and ultraviolet light (UV). Part of UV, called UVB, allows reptiles to make vitamin D3, which is vital for them to store and use calcium.
Another part is called UVA, which is essential for a snake’s vision. They can see many more colours with UVA.
Create a photogradient, from light to shade, by grouping your light with the heat source so the cool end is more shaded, just as in the wild. Fit a low-output, two to seven percent reptile UVB tube, one-half to one-third of the vivarium length, into the roof of the vivarium in the hot end. Use a reflector of the correct length to direct the light onto your python. UVB decreases with distance, so follow the UVB tube manufacturer’s recommendations regarding distance between the lamp and the snake.
The UVB output decreases over time so the UVB output should be checked regularly using an appropriate UV Index (UVI) meter positioned at the level of the snake and directed towards the UV lamp. You must also replace the lamp according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and make sure UV lamps are guarded to prevent burns, or injuries should the bulb shatter.
Royal pythons require a gradient of UVB within their enclosure ranging from UVI 1.0 in the basking zone to zero in the shade.
Some morphs of royal pythons, like albinos, will need lower UVB levels, with a gradient from a maximum of UVI 0.7 in their basking zone to zero in the shade.
Turn off all lights at night. You can use a plug-in timer, set to 12 hours on during the day and 12 hours off at night.
Cleaning
Poorly maintained enclosures become dirty quickly. Animal waste should be spot cleaned as soon as it appears, and the whole vivarium – walls, glass and decorations – needs to be cleaned once a month. Use a reptile-safe disinfectant, available from pet shops, then rinse off well. It's important to reduce the spread of infection, as reptiles can carry salmonella.
Diet
Water
Provide a dish of clean, fresh water at the cool end of the vivarium for drinking, and replace it at least daily.
It needs to be large enough to allow the snake to bathe. Sometimes the snake will foul the water, in which case it must be changed as quickly as possible.
Feeding
Royal pythons feed on a variety of prey in the wild, but in captivity you should feed them a diet of frozen then thawed rodents, available from pet shops. You can also buy multimammate mice, a rodent from Africa that more closely resembles their wild prey, and a quail once a month or so to increase variety.
As a rule, offer prey that’s slightly wider than the widest part of the snake’s body. Feed your snake inside their vivarium, using tongs to offer the prey.
Young snakes typically feed every five or six days and move up sizes as they grow. They should be fed less often when they’re an adult – around every seven to 14 days, depending on the weight of the animal. It’s important to weigh your snake regularly to make sure they aren’t becoming underweight or obese.
Royal pythons shouldn’t need supplements for their diets, as long as they’re fed good quality prey.
Behaviour
Enrichment
It’s important that you provide an interesting and stimulating environment that encourages natural behaviour, called enrichment. Royal pythons love to climb in the open in low light, so include decorations such as branches in the vivarium. Make sure they’re sturdy enough to support the weight of this heavy-bodied snake and, if you use natural branches, sterilise them with boiling water first.
Royal pythons also like small spaces – they typically hide in animal burrows in the wild – so add several hides at both ends of the vivarium so that the snake can choose the temperature without having to compromise feeling secure. Hides must be big enough for the snake to fit inside, but not so large that their body can’t touch the insides of the hide when coiled up. One of the hides should contain moist moss, to create a humid hide.
Substrate
Substrate is the floor covering of the vivarium. It’s important as it provides something for the snake to burrow under, which will help it to feel more secure, and also stops mess from spreading (though you must still clean it as soon as it appears).
Organic soils made for reptiles hold humidity well without going mouldy. If mould starts forming even on this substrate, then your humidity may be too high and your ventilation not good enough. This is one of the reasons to run your vivarium for a week in advance of getting the snake so that you can adjust the humidity (see below).
Natural leaves can be used to provide cover, create a more naturalistic environment and also hold humidity. Sterilise leaves with boiling water and allow them to dry before use. It’s not recommended to use sand for royal pythons as it may irritate their skin.
For permanent housing of snakes, consider a bioactive system. Keepers can research how to do this using expert books on the topic, or specialist keeper member groups online.
Bringing your python home
Always set up the vivarium and run it for a week before introducing your snake. This will allow time for you to adjust the heating and lighting systems and add your enrichment without disturbing the snake.
Place the tub or bag containing the snake inside the vivarium, and open it carefully to allow the snake to emerge. Close the door securely and turn the lights off to reduce stress until the following morning when you can check on them. It’s best not to handle unnecessarily for the first week; instead, allow time for your python to become used to their new environment.
Company
Royal pythons are a naturally solitary species so they should be housed by themselves. It’s also easier to check the health of a snake kept in their own enclosure.
Handling
Royal pythons can become quite docile if handled carefully. Hatchlings have more of a tendency to strike and bite as they are shy, but this usually resolves as they grow.
Gently scoop up the snake with one hand near the head and the other nearer the tail. Always support the whole animal and never grab them, as this can cause stress which can lead the snake to struggle or bite. When a snake feels threatened it may pull their head back so the neck forms an ‘S’ shape when viewed from above. If your snake does this, it's better to leave them alone until another time.
The snake should not be taken from the vivarium for so long that their core temperature drops. Around 10–15 minutes at a time is safe, depending on the room temperature. Wait 48 hours after feeding before handling your snake otherwise they could bring up their food.
Also avoid handling during shedding as your snake may be defensive, and after handling prey as the snake may smell food and try to bite – wash your hands well first.
Health and welfare
A healthy royal will be active and inquisitive. They'll flick their tongue frequently and have clear, bright eyes.
Shedding
Reptiles have to regularly shed their skin and a healthy snake will shed in one single piece. There’s no rule as to how often this will happen but it'll be more frequent when the snake is young and growing. When it’s time to shed, the snake may refuse food and use the humid hide. The snake will then rub their body against objects in the vivarium to remove old skin.
If you notice that your snake still has shed over their eyes even after a shed, then these ‘eye caps’ will need removing as soon as possible. A reptile specialist vet can do this safely.
If the snake has not shed completely, try bathing them in slightly warm water to soften the stuck shed. If your snake often has issues with shedding, this is usually related to the set-up of the vivarium or its humidity, so the issue can be resolved with simple changes.
Brumation
Brumation is a natural energy-saving process seen in some snakes over the cooler months. It’s triggered by the reduction in natural daylight hours and air pressure. Do not try to encourage brumation in your royal python.
Fasting
Royals have a reputation for going off their food. There’s a range of reasons for the snake to stop feeding, for example, there may be a problem with the set-up causing the snake to become stressed.
Sometimes this is seasonal and appears to be linked to brumation. In general, pythons have low energy output so may not feed as often as other types of snake. When choosing a royal, find out how they’ve been feeding before you acquire them and avoid taking on one who has not been feeding well. If your snake suddenly stops feeding, consult your reptile specialist vet who may be able to identify the cause and provide help.
Diseases and concerns
Look for signs of weight loss or diarrhoea as these can be signs of internal parasites. Constipation could be a sign that the snake is poorly hydrated or that the basking temperature is too low for proper digestion.
Snakes can also suffer from mouth rot, an infection of the mouth that can have many causes. External parasites, such as mites, lodge underneath the scales and drink blood. If your snake is spending long periods of time in the water, it could indicate mites. Mites can also spread disease, so they’re a serious concern.
Royals are also prone to respiratory infections. These are usually caused by too high humidity and poor ventilation. A whistling sound when the snake breathes is one of the symptoms, as is seeing the snake reaching up and gasping for breath.
Metabolic bone disease (MBD) describes a range of nutritional diseases and imbalances, but it often involves a lack of available calcium and the related full-spectrum of natural minerals due to a deficiency of vitamin D3 and mineral supply.
It’s essential to research these diseases before getting a royal python. If you do buy or adopt a snake, monitor their health and behaviour daily and see your reptile vet urgently if you have any concerns.
Transport
If you need to transport your royal python, for example to the vets, it’s important to do so safely. Choose a suitable sized carrier: small snakes such as hatchlings can be transported in ventilated plastic containers with soft, absorbent paper; adults can be transported in a tightly secured cloth bag, within a well-ventilated plastic tub to prevent injury.
Avoid extremes of temperature. You can use a heat pack, but make sure it doesn’t over-heat the environment. Keep transit time to a minimum to reduce stress.
